My plane lands in Birmingham and I catch a Greyhound bus north a hundred miles to Russellville, the county seat of Winston County, the "Free State of Winston."
    I sit in the bus, an unreconstructured Viet Nam veteran, and I watch the familiar countryside of low rolling hills and red dirt farms and cotton fields that go all the way to the horizon.
    The South is a big Indian reservation populated by ex-Confederates who are bred like cattle to die in Yankee wars.  In Alabama there is no circus to run off to, so we join the Marines.